Old Hickory House
Rating: B(eware)
2202 Northlake Pkwy
Tucker, GA 30084
770 939 8621
The motto of this barbecue place is "Put Some South In Your Mouth" (to which my mother would have replied, "You don't know where it's been"). It is appended to Northlake Quadrangle Office Park, just off I-285. The dark, pine-panelled dining room (where the DeKalb County Libertarian Party holds its monthly meeting) is decorated with photos of midcentury downtown Atlanta. Service was of the "Quick to greet, but when do we eat?" variety.
The eclectic menu includes a "Gourmet Barbecue Sandwich" on Toasted Garlic Bread, and a "Dieter's Delight Salad," described as "4 oz lean sliced smoked pork or beef served over crisp salad greens, low cal dressing, and saltines." Also featured: a wide variety of southern style vegetables, banana pudding, potato salad, and a mayo-based coleslaw.
This reviewer ordered a standard sliced barbecue sandwich, which was served on an oval stoneware plate, wrapped in foil. The accompanying French fries were biggiesized, chunky, and satisfyingly nondescript. The sandwich was served uncut, with outsized slabs of perfunctorily-smoked meat, generally lean but with one dismaying goblet of fat. There was ample outside content. A sugary tomato-based sauce had been applied to the sandwich, and extra sauce was served on the side in a small plastic tub. No pickle was served or offered (apparently sliced pickles are served with the barbecue plate, however). ketchup, pepper sauce were also available on the table.
The sauce, which resembled a watered mixture of ketchup and Karo corn syrup, macerated the sandwich bun, causing its disintegration near end of the meal. The sauce recipe is said to have "been handed down for three generations" --putting this reviewer in mind of Justice Holmes' uncharitable reminder that sometimes three generations is enough.
Four hours and one squash lesson later, tonstant weviewa fwo dup.
9 10 03
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